De Percé à Matane

 I had one of the very best meals of this trip two night’s ago in the dining room of the La Normandie Hotel in Percé. From my table in the airy and bright room I could see Rocher Percé bathed in the evening glow of a slowly setting sun, much as it appears in this picture from the hotel’s website that was taken from the table where I was actually seated.

The service was excellent and the meal, accompanied by a couple of glasses of white Orpailleur, was delicious, each course very well executed and presented. Of particular note were the scallop ceviche with very ripe pineapple, crushed almonds, and other delicious stuff, and my main course, a Gaspésienne bouillabaisse served in a conch shell inspired dish, which consisted of half a lobster tail, scallops, mussels, salmon and cod, and two kinds of shrimp swimming in a perfectly seasoned fish broth. Complimenti to the chef.

After dinner I retired to my room at the B&B across the road from La Normandie where I had a good night’s sleep and a delicious breakfast of coffee, o j, and pancakes with banana and real maple syrup, before setting out on the ride along the 132 West to Matane.

The 132 is a great highway that goes all the way around the Gaspé Peninsula and as such hugs the coasts of the Baie des Chaleurs, the Gulf of St-Lawrence and the river of the same name. It goes through many small villages set in coves and bays along the route. Here is one such typical place, Grande Vallée.

 I had forgotten how different parts of the road are; there are alternating stretches of wide pavement with passing lanes and a posted speed limit of 90 kph, which is clearly just suggestive as no one drives that slowly, and then other sections that are reminiscent of the Pacific Coastal Highway,  narrow road surfaces with repeated steep inclines and declines and connected curves, including even switch-backs, with speed limits as low as 35 kph that one would do well to respect.

There are many places to turn off the road to take in the scenery and sights including the lighthouse at Madeleine-Centre.

Finally today, another lesson on the ever-present dangers of the road to watch for. You will recall that I previously posted and warned about falling rocks and snow, waves that eat cars and bicyclists. Today I would like to highlight two additional risks. The first are motorcycles that do crazy things in certain areas. Where is the rider I ask?

And finally the EXCLAMATION POINT, that hides just over the crest of a steep hill. 

Yes, you’d be more than a little surprised if, at 90 kph, you unexpectedly came upon one of these in the middle of road ahead of you! Fortunately, and I hope my luck hold out, I have not encountered one, nor the moose that we’re often warned about. Riding certainly is an adventure!

Tomorrow I am planning to ride from Matane to Cambellton New Brunswick.