Visiting the Maggies in the rain

Having figured out that riding around the Îles de la Madeleine in the wind and rain might not be a whole lot of fun, I rented a car for two days and was able to drive in comfort from one end of the island to the other.  I can see how people might want to come here. The beige beaches, of which there are many, are easily accessible and they extend for many kilometres.

The first two pictures show the surf crashing on one of the stretches of beach.

This is one of the lighthouses and the keepers house. Note how the lighthouse is anchored to the ground with a set of heavy cables.

Again, the surf crashing against an interesting rock formation. If you zoom in you`ll see a flock of birds on the rocky outcrop.

Interesting shoreline and of my rental car at a rest stop yesterday.

Another interesting sight is the many small fishing harbors. I detoured to a number of them and was impressed by the number and condition of boats at each of them. There`s no doubt that the fishery is big business around here.

The next two pictures are of the fantastic dinner I had at La table des Roy. It consisted of an appetizer of grilled octopus and a main of herb crusted halibut on a veal reduction with many fine (with the exception of the Brussels sprouts) additional ingredients. The service was impeccable and the suggested white wines a perfect match. This was certainly the best meal of the trip.

The rain stopped overnight, and even though it was windy early this morning, the five hour crossing to Souris was comfortable. I was able to read and nap for a fair chunk of time.

Bulwinkle’s B&B

I don’t know why Brady from Kentucky came up with the name Bulwinkle’s for his B&B that he comes up to every year with his dog to run for the summer holiday season, but it certainly suits the place and reflects the character of its owner. Brady is a gregarious motorcycle aficionado, cook, “homme à tout faire”. His passion (one of many no doubt) is making large size prints of material from old magazines. A large selection of his works are displayed on the walls of the hallways, and all the rooms in this large old house.

Here is a selection.

Brady owns a number of second hand large-size printers, including one that he picked up at Universal Studios in California, that he maintains and uses to make his prints which he sells at antique motorcycle shows, along with used motorcycle parts. The only other six guests at the B&B were a Ukranian family of four from Moncton, mom, dad, a three year old son and beautiful 11 month old Catherine who is just starting to walk, and the mother's sister and her partner who live in Amsterdam. As is so often the case with many visitors to Canada, they have no concept of the size of our country. Upon arrival for their two week holiday the sister was saying that they would drive around Nova Scotia and then onward to British Columbia. 

After breakfast, with a few hours to kill before the ferry to Îles de la Madeleine was scheduled to leave I circumnavigated the eastern tip of PEI. 

Due to a medical emergency the ship was more than an hour late leaving Souris for the five hour crossing to Cap Aux Meules. 

We landed around 8:00, and after checking into Auberge Madeli I went out for a delicious dinner of oysters, mussels and a local beer (Écume) at Resto Les Pas Perdus (either The Lost Steps or The Not Lost- either way a great name).

As the weather forecast for Friday and Saturday called for rain, wind and cold, I decided to rent a car to tour the Islands. So far it`s turned out to be the right call. I would not want to be riding in this weather, or having to spend two days in a hotel room. This morning I made my way to the end of the road at La Grave, the small historic/tourist village La Grave at the western end of Île du Havre Aubert.

I was going to visit the Musée de la mer but was informed at the desk that it would soon be closing for the staffs lunch break; after all, and I agree, le déjeuner ensemble is so more important than keeping the place open for a few admission paying tourists. 

On the way back I contacted La Table des Roy and made a reservation for dinner this evening.

Prince Edward Island discovery

I must say that an establishment that calls itself a B&B (Home Away from Home) should put a little more effort than just laying out a few muffins, mini boxes of cereal, plain bread and bagels, and a few other things in what is a broom closet on the second floor and call it a “continental breakfast. I expect a proper breakfast like the one I was served by Brady at Bulwinkle’s Place B&B in Souris yesterday. It consisted of orange juice, a carafe of nice coffee, buckwheat pancakes with butter and real maple syrup, country ham, local sausages, “eggs Bulwinkle”, a 2 egg dish created by Brady, and yogurt.

So, you recognize the Confederation Bridge that “finally” connected the municipality of Prince Edward Island to the rest of Canada. I must say that PEI is probably one of the nicest places in the country; all green and red with Gulf waters all around, it being an Island and all. I had a delicious lobster roll for lunch, 

and after a nice ride to the lighthouse at East Point, the furthest point on the eastern tip of the island from where, on a clear day, you can see Cape Breton.

Through McCain land to ‘Home Away from Home’

A beautiful day for riding yesterday, sunny and low 20s, not too hot.  I chose to ride secondary highways from Edmundston to Lincoln, a suburb of Fredericton. While the 114 to Grand Falls and the 105 from there to Fredericton are not in very good shape, many potholes and cracks that force you to be alert at all times, the scenery all along the Saint John river is interesting.

I stopped for lunch, the daily special -roast beef on bun with McCain curly fries, on the patio at The River Restaurant in Woodstock; the location and service wonderful, the food not so much. Afterwards I crossed back over the river and rode the rest of the way to the Home Away from Home B&B where I spent the night.

Dinner, fish and chips (McCains curly fries) at the Irving Bigstop was surprisingly good.

                                                            

And after breakfast

It nearly rained as I rode from Trois Rivières on Highway 132 that runs along the St-Laurent to Rivière-du-loup and then on the 85 to Edmundston where I am spending the night at the Nid D’aigle B&B.

Tomorrow I am continuing east to just past Fredericton.  Let’s hope it’s sunny.

It’s about breakfast an what follows (continued)

Don’t know what happened with last post. So where was I? Oh yah, breakfast, yaourt:

Désirez-vous un yaourt maison (choice of three different ones) après votre salade de fruit frais, avec votre assiette fromage accompagnée d’une sélection de pains artisanaux et de pâtisseries à volonté”.
-Oui, oui, oui, et encore oui!

It’s about the breakfast and what follows

Last night I had a really good Mahi Mahi Niçoise salad dinner and a flight of 4 different beers brewed on the premises at Le temps d’une pinte a bistro-brasserie a few doors from Hotel Oui Go on rue Notre Dame Centre. Bistro is so not pub!

The boutique hotel Oui Go has been carved out of a turn of the last century building. There are only good things to say about this establishment and the experience therein. The restoration has brought to life a beautiful exterior while adding all the conveniences in well decorated public spaces and rooms. From arrival to departure the young bilingual staff are courteous, engaging, helpful and smiling. “While your room is not quite ready yet (I was an hour early), we’ll check you in and your luggage will be placed in it by 3:00.”

Trois Rivières takes bikers seriously. If you look carefully at the above picture you’ll notice that there is a row of motorcycles parked along the street. These motorcycle-only metered spots are located at various places along the main city centre streets; so easy to get to the bistros, brasseries and restaurants of which there are a fair few.

And now the breakfast.

“Désirez-vous un café, latte, cappuccino, espresso, régulier?

- Oui, s’il vous plaît.

“Un yaourt mais

2019 - First retirement ride

Well, I know how you’ve all been breathlessly awaiting the first 2019 instalment of Retirement Rides so here goes.

Unlike previous summers this year’s is unusual due to a number of scheduled events that would make an extended journey impracticable. First I have accepted an invitation to the first ever reunion of my 1967 high school graduation class in August. Then, having decided that I wanted to visit les Îles de la Madeleine, there’s this little thing of being able to book passage on the ferry from Souris PEI. It turns out that nothing was available in July. Ergo a June trip; but not too early because I have no interest in riding in near sub-zero temperature. And since I Was in Toronto this past Thursday and had an early Father’s Day breakfast and visit with my two wonderful sons, Pierre-Alain and Jean-François yesterday, and have agreed to be the M C at an appreciation diner in Ottawa on the 26th, this retirement ride will just fit in the available time slot. Who says being retired is uncomplicated.

I finished packing last night and left Orléans under mostly sunny skies around 9:30 this morning. Except for a quick stop at Timmy’s in Hawkesbury, I rode uneventfully, and at times speedily, to Trois Rivière. I have a lovely 2nd floor corner room at the Hotel Oui Go on Notre Dame Street. I am looking forward to my first dinner on the road and wish you were all here.

I hope to include some pictures with future posts.

Take care!!