Home again! Home again! Jiguedy-jig!!

There was a bit of a homecoming at 1591 Champneuf yesterday;

and this is what it looked like when I left

Well. the odyssey is over.

I returned home yesterday afternoon at around 3:30 after riding from London; and my objective for the day was to reach home as quicly as possible without sacrificing safety or any points on my license.

It was an adventure of a lifetime that has created a large cache of memories of the places I've visited and the people I've met along the way, only a few of which I've mentionned on this blog. There are way too many interesting places and events to mention but some of the highlights include visiting with my two brothers and then riding with my older brother Gillles from Coniston to Blind River; riding under undless skies through our somewhat soggy but still beautiful prairies; staying at Steven and Alma's in Saskatoon and getting to meet a number of Alma,s family; meeting Jane in Calgary, staying at Glenda and Neil's condo in Canmore and then crossing the Rockies with her, spending some time in Vancouver meeting "Coutts family" and seeing Kim, Chris and their two boys Cam and Jake who were all caught up in World Cup excitement; riding the ferries to Vancouver Island and Port Angeles; the magnificent if often oh so impossibly twisty Pacific coastal highway from the northern tip of Washington State to San fransisco, with an interesting detour into wine country to the Napa and Sonoma valleys; magnificent Yosemite National Park; Las Vegas, where everything is so over the top; the Hoover dam, an engineering marvel; Death Valley, probably the most intense experience of the trip, the view and the HEAT; the ride through the Hopi and Navajo nations lands in the northeast part of Arizona, agin the stunning landscape; GRAND CANYON, te scale of which pictures and words can never do justuce to; the whole State of Colorado with its rich diversity from the tallest peaks, like those in Mountain National Park, to the plains in the northern part; the plain states of Nebraska and Iowa; Chicago and going for a picnic and a concert in Millenium Park with new friends Bill and Chris: crossing the Blue Water Bridge in Sarnia and boasting about my motorcycle to the inquisitive CBSA agent; and finally pulling into the driveway at 1591 Champneuf and seeing Jane.

The ride was nothing short of spectacular and my BMW lived up to its reputation as probably the best touring motorcycle around. I could easily ride all day, sometimes as many as 700 kilometers and still be able to walk around afterwards. It proved to be reliable as well; the only maintenance it required was to change two riding bulbs and an oil and filter change in Palo Alto after 7300 kilometers.

There are many ways to tell the story of this journey; here are a few numbers:

Days away: 36, from June 21 to July 26

Provinces crossed: 5

States visited: 12

Kilometers riden: 13,301

Stops for gas: 45

Litres of fuel used: 625

Hotels/motels stayed at: 26

Pictures taken: 782

And I didn't counnt the number of curves in the road, but there were thousands; the number of other motorcyclists I waved at, there were a lot, especially on the coastal highway and through Colorado; and the people who, at various stops along the way, asked about the trip, some of which wishing that they could do the same, all of them wishing me a safe trip.

What is truly amazing is that, with the exception of one stretch of riding in the rain between Sault Ste Marie and Wawa, and again with Jane on a stetch in the Rockies, the weather was great throughout the trip. There were sometimes clouds and rain ahead, behind and on either side of me as I was riding, but it's as though some benevolent force was holding up an umbrella to shield me from it, doubtless it was many of you hoping and praying for my safe travels; and I thank you for that.

Many of you will have to "bear" with me as I recall thsi or that part of the trip in the weeks, months and year's ahead. I thank you in advance for your indulgence.

THE END!

Closing in on Canada after Chicago

There are a number of these interesting looking old farm buildings along Route 30 in Iowa. Off in the distance you can seee a few of the many many wind turbines that dot the countryside.


Fields in Iowa; corn as far as the eye can see.

Major tragedy in Chicago. Part of the movie set for Terminator 3 that's being filmed in the heart of the city.

The Congress Hotel on Soth Michigan were I stayed from Friday evening to this morning. A great location from whch to visit the Art Institute of Chicago, other downtown sights, and attend a concert last night with Bill and Chris, friends of Chuck and Lynn, in Millenium Park.

The weather today is sunny and hot. After a bit of confusion getting out of Chicago, I am now well on my way to U S - Canada border. I've just driven through Kalamazoo; a place I had to see because I know a girl from here. Traffic on I-94 is not very heavy and with a posted speed limit of 70 mph I am making decent time.

Nebraska - there's nothing much to say

A flower from Nebraska for the bouquet.


This town has less going for it than a similarly named friend.



The second most noteworthy thing about Nebraska. They are everywhere. Well, they're certainly everywhere in the Route 30 corridor which one takes to avoid the trucks on the I-80; and besides the view is better and you get to drive through all the towns, like Chapman.


The most ubiquitous sight in Nebraska; cornfields as far as the eye can see.

And this is what it looks like from the middle of the road. Why the chicken would ever want to cross this road beats me; it's all the same, on both sides.

Another long day in the saddle, over 600 km. I've crossed the state line (unaccompanied by a minor) and am staying at the Day's End in Missourri Valley. The beer and steak sandwich, in the lounge accross the road, the one with the 12 big screen tv's showing different channels, were very good.

Tomorrow I continue to drift northeast.

Colorado all the time

A herd of cattle and some horses in Pawnee National Grassland, in the northeast corner of the state of Colorado


"Picked" flowers at over 12,000 feet in Rocky Mountain National Park.

A view from the Alpine Visitor Center at the top of Rocky Mountain National Park.

The never Summer Mountains in the park.

I spent nearly all of the day in Colorado, and most of that in Rocky Mountain Park. The park road, Route 34, winds its way up the mountain to the Alpine Visitor Center which is above the tree line at more than 12,000 feet above see level. The views from the top of the mountain are spectacular. One even sees herds of elk wandering the grassy slopes of the mountain at this altitude. The driving is sometimes a bit nerve raking, particularly on the very twisty bits at the top when the 12 fooy-wide lane of pavement is abutted by a shear drops of God knows how maany feet on the right! "Luckily" there was some road construction nearly at the top which meant that traffic in either direction was stopped, at times for more than 15 minutes, which allowed drivers to take in the spectacular views. The logistics of road construction at these altitudes must be just mind-boggling, and the costs must be astronomical.

I was again struck today by how much motorcycle riders, regardless of the brand they are riding, easily enter into conversation with other bikers. - Where are you from? Where are you going? What's the weather been like on your trip ? Have a safe trip. Keep the shiny side up! - These conversations rarely happen between motorists.

Colorado is a beautiful state, rich with diversity; there are the mountains but also the grassy regions in the eastern part of the state where oil and gas are extracted and cattle is raised in wide open spaces.

I've now crossed into Nebraska on Route 30 and, after a couple of beer and a steak dinner, I am spending the night in Sydney.

Tomorrow it's more Route 30 heading east.

Arizona and Colorado

This is Colorado from the top of Mount Monarch which I reached via a short gondola ride.


Northern Arizona is beautiful; even if it's nearly a dessert and the temperature is in the 40s.

One of the 'monuments' right along Route 160.

You've got to enlarge this one to get a sense of the scale of the Grand Canyon. Its impossible to imagine how immense and impressive it is.

5 steps back and I'm a Grand canyon statistic!

From Tuba City I headed northeast on Highway 160 up to Colorado. Thee sceneray in Northern Arizona is beautiful; the blue sky with white clouds and the orange-red and pink earth frame some monumental rock outcrops, some of which are referred to as monuments, and one can see why.

Colorado is something else again. By the looks of it it,s much more a bikers destination as I saw was more motorcyclers here than anywhere else on my trip. It probably doesn't hurt that the roads are curvy, the scenary is beautiful and the gas is cheap. I slept in a small motel with a pool in Montrose last night and have made my way to Winter City, still in Colorado, where 've found a room at the Sundowner Hotel. Earlier on I had stopped for lunch at a family mexican restaurant in Buena Vista. I picked this spot because there were a half dozen or so motorcycles parked in the lot beside the restaurant. While I was having my lunch I noticed out of the window that one of the riders from the group, a guy of about my age I'd say, was cleaning the windscreen of my motorcyle. I thought to myself, now that's really a nice gesture. I hurried to finish my meal and pay my bill, and went out to thank the author of this good deed.

When I approached the group he asked: "Is that your Beemer?"

''Why yes, and thank you for cleaning my windscreen; you folks sure are friendly."

The others in the group were smiling when he said: "Well I thought the bike was one of ours, but when I noticed it wasn't I stopped. But if it's not clean enough I can finish it."

I told him he had done a great job, we chatted a bit and then we were off in our seperate ways. Another lovely moment on the trip. I continued through the magnificent mountain passes to Winter Park where I had a lovely dinner in an excellent italian restaurant; the food and wine weere excellent and for a while i had the whole restaurant to myself as apparently it's slow season.

Now i must plan tomorrow's route.

Friday pictures of Death Valley and Las Vegas

GPS showing that I was 240 feet below sea level at this point in Death Valley. The lowest point of the road is at around 250 feet.












After climbing out of the valley heading proper, but still in the national park you arrive at this interesting spot called Zabriskie Point. The landscape is awesome.





One of the "cooler" sections, only 43, the hotest was 50 degrees.

















The 'valcano' in front of The Mirage on the Strip in Vegas.















View from the road in Death Valley.
























Lonely cactus by the road in Death Valley

Thursday Pictures

Another "picked" flower for Jane; the rest of you can enjoy it too.










Olmsted Point in Yosemite named after the famous American lanscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted and his son Frederick Jr.












I thought Phil would appreciate this one.



An interesting piece of roadwork along the Meyer River in Yosemite. That's actually just a boulder that has been drilled and blasted to make way for the road.

Death Valley - Las Vegas - Hoover Dam - Grand Canyon

Well I've been busy. After leaving Bishop Friday morning, I rode through Death Valley and made my way to Las Vegas. But let me tell you about this interesting couple of retirees I met in Bishop. This episode starts at the Starbucks as I'm waiting dor my order. A gentlemen approaches me and offers to take my bike keys and to go out with it for an hour "just to keep it warmed up". As it happens Ron, is retired and rides a BMW GS. He's also a newlywed of 10 months and he and his wife Janice, a former California Stae employee are on a trip through Death Valley and Yosemite,from their home in southern California. Ron warns me to make sure that i have plenty of water to drink as the temperature will be very hot in Death Valley and dehydration is a real possibility. We agree to keep an eye out for each other later in the day.

Well, about three hours later at a small nothing place in Death Valley as i'm turning around in a parking lot I see Ron and Janice in their Caravan. They've seen me and they want to taks some more. Well, what they really want is to make sure I'm still alive.

- "Well, what took you so long?"

-I dawdled, stopped at a bunch of places to take pictures.

- "Show me that water you said you had."

So I did. and Ron went to the back of his Caravan, opened a cooler and gave me a bottle of frozen water. And as though that were not enough generosity, he gave me three other bottles of water, and an admission pass for Death Valley Park - a $10 gift. We talked some more and he wiped the few drops of rain that had fallen on the bike(and my helmet)as we spoke. It was a wonderful encounter of strangers; we shook hands and parted company, doutless never to seee each other ever again but happy and enriched by the moments we spent together.

Well it did get hot; at the point some 240 feet below sea level the temperature gauge on my bike was showing 50 degrees. I told jane that i now know what a chicken in a convection oven feels like.

Having made a reservation for a room on the internet I arrived at the Riviera in Las Vegas late in the afternoon. After a quick shower I was off to discover. What a place. It felt like there were as many people on the sidewalks in front of the major casinos on "The Strip" as there are in Times Square. I had a great dinner of crabs, sauteed spinach with a glass of Sonoma valley chardonnay at Joe's, an establishment with its roots in Miami, in the Ceaser's Palace Mall.

Even if it was a late night Friday, I was up very early today and made my way to Hoover Dam and the Grand Canyon. Both of these sites are truly amazing, the former for its engineering grandeur and the latter for the natural beauty and magnitude. While there were many people at both places, it bwas not crowded and I was able to easily see what I wanted to look at. One could easily spend days exploring Grand Canyon and it's certainly something Jane and I could do, along with Yosemite.

I left the canyon after six which meant that I would have to find a room quickly. I was quite lucky to find one at the Menkopi Legacy Inn and Suites, a fine establishment which just opened this May in Tuba City Arizona. The Inn is owned and operated by the Kopi tribe business development association and the native staff are clearly quite proud of their place of employment. I was told I could park my bike right by the front door, and i mean right by, and that they would look after it during the night.

I've yet to finalize tomorrow's route but it in the direction of north and east.

I haven't figured out the problem that's preventing me from uploading pictures but I'll continue to work on it.

A short update

I rode from my hotel in Fish Creek through Yoosemite. It took about 2 hours to get to the park entrance, a long part of the ride in a valley along the Meyer River. I stoppped at a number of palces to take pictures, some of which I will try to post tonight. The crossing through the park which is some 70 miles or so was on some of the best road I've encountered in parks thusfar, took another three hours. Again there are a many many places where one is tempted to stop to view the scenery; I resisted for the most part. There were a lot of people in Yosemite but the place is so big that you're never in a crowd and the traffic moves very well. There are many turnouts where slower traffic can pul over to let faster moving vehicles to pass and they generally do.

Once out of the Park I turned south headed for Death Valley and as I rode I could feel, and see on the themostat in the instrument cluster of my bike, that the temperature was steadily climbing. It reached a high of 43.5 degrees just as I arrived at Bishop. As it was already 4:30 and there being still more than 2 hours to get into the Valley itself I decided to stop here for the night. I found a nice, clean but old (60's?) motel and got a room. This early arrival gave me time for a dip in the motel pool (refreshing at 75 degrees - they must have a chiller), a beer at the local bowling alley (cold and delicious), and a dinner (chicken wings and shrimp with mixed vegetables in a light garlic souce) in a good chinese restaurant.

Today I'm off to Death Valley and points east.

Palo Alto to Yosemite

Veil Falls in Yosemite

Looking down from Tunnel Observation point in Yosemite,

Sorry, I got in the way of the view.

Some of the winding road leading to Yosemite.

If you look real close you'll make out a couple of horse in this field in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountain range.

From the freeways getting out of San Fransisco I rode inland accross the Sierra Nevada mountains into Yosemite National Park. Even the ride on the freeways was better than I had expected; fast, but with interesting things to see. I got off the interstae at Turlock where I had lunch in a sandwich place and then rode through nut and fruit growing country. While stopped at a fruit stand where I bought some locally grown produce, I saw two tractor trailers with huge bins of loose freshly harvested tomotoes heading for what I would discover later was a Hunts factory in Oadale. The temperature was hot, reaching as high as 38.5 degrees in Sonora where I stopped for fuel and water. Yosemite is amazing and the state of the infrastructure, the roads and the lookouts speak to the fact that doubtless millions of people visit this site every year. The natural displays are breathtaking. I stopped numerous times just to take in the views of the mountains, the valleys, and the rivers.

Tonight I'm staying at the swish Tenaya Lodge at Yosemite. It's so tony that they can and do charge you an extra $10 for internet access, something that even the cheapest places I've stayed in offer free! But it,s very nice.

Who knows what adventures tomorrow will bring.

From Sonoma to Palo Alto

The long and winding road.

Again, the coast from a roadside view point on Highway 1.

Flowers that I stopped to "pick" for Jane

Them there grapevines around Sonoma that everybody talks about

I drove west from Sonoma bacl to the Highway 1 and the coast, and yep, this bit of the costal highwagy was as screwy as the others: clutching, braking, downshifting, accelerating, clutching and upchifting, over and over to negotiate the curves with at speeds of 15, 20, 25, and 30 mph. I stopped for a light breakfast/lunch at Pine Coves Diner in Point Reyes Station; a breakfast sandwich which consisted of two fried eggs, 3 strips of bacon, tomato and cheddar cheese ON WHOLE WHEAT BREAD, with hashbrowns (about half a pound I'd guess) and coffee.

The rest of the ride into san Fransisco was uneventful; except for the bit where we were stopped by the highway patrol to let an oversized load pass; a huge tank of some kind on a trailer which I can't figure out how it got through the hairpin turns.

And then as I rounded yet another curve in the road, there in front of me was the Golden Gate Bridge. which I crossed in mid afternoon with, as the song say, the glorious sun shining on me and a staedy stream of pedestrians crossing it as well.

I made my way through San Fransisco to a BMW motorcycle shop in Palo Alto where, to my surprise they were able to do an oil change and an inspection while I inspected the merchandise in their store. While I didn't buy a nelovely w bike, I did purchase a new pair of lightweight BMW gloves; and they even match my riding jacket. When I went to retrieve my bike tghe technician who had done the service said that I would have to change the rear shock as it was no longer working. When I asked if he had checked the shock adjustment he replied; No, but the wawa, yak yak ardu estamu giggling pin thingy whatchamaycallit is more blah blah. I thanked him for his extert advice, paid for the oil change and went off to find aroom for the nite. Having located an America's Best Value Inn, the Sky Ranch Inn on El Camino Real in Palo Alto, I unloaded the bike, retrieved the srewdriver from my toolkit, and proceeded to adjust the tension of the rear shock absorber. I was quite proud of myself and I'm sure that Jesse, my BMW mechanic in Ottawa would also have been.

As a reward for all my efforts I had dinner at Trader Vic's; some large oysters on a half shell with a glass of La Crema Chardonnay from Monterey, and a delicious steak with asparagus and roasted sweet potato accompanied by a lovely cabernet sauvignon whose provenance escapes me.

Today I rode from Palo Alto to Yosemite, the subject of another post.

There's nothing to "wine" about

These are two pictures of a particularly curvy undulating bits of Highway 1. and this is the River's End Restauarant where I had lunch. The impression from the roadwat isn't much but the view out the back and the food are amazing.

This is one of those views that no picture can capture. And yes P-A, I was stopped when I took it.

This is a small part of what i could see from the balcony off my second floor room at the Beachcomber Motel in Fort Bragg.

Started off at around 9:15 this morning along Highway 1. The speed of the bike accentuates the coolness of the air to the point that I had to turn on the heated grips and the "bum warmer", as Jane calls it, for the first hour or so.

I stopped for lunch at River's End, a highly rated coastal restaurant in Stewarts Point where according to their own flyer "a mystical river ends (and) a celebration of food and wine begins". I must say that the fish and chips and the glass of fine Chardonnay.

I had thought I would then take a small road marked on my map to go over to Geyserville (I mean how can one resist a place with that name) but, after a kilometre (or maybe a mile) on the roughest curvy surface I've encountered so far and with the prospect of another 20 miles of it, I turned around and drove further south on Highway 1. But, fear not keen reader, I did make it to Geyserville, a quiet place, by following route 116 from Jenner. Having taken note of Chuck Shields suggestions I found the square in Healdsburg and stopped to walk around a bit. I'm afraid the wine tasting tour will have to be some other time as motorcycling on winding roads and sipping wine, either before or during, don't mix very well. I then made my way via routes 128 and 29through St Helena and Younville to Napa. The last part was very slow but it did afford me the opportunity to look at the scenery more closely. To say that there are wineries in these parts is like saying there are redwoods in the Redwood Forest; its vines everywhere and as in some places as far as one can see. I assume the local constabulary must be quite busy as there are signs along the road that encourage people to call 911 to report drunk drivers. From there it was on to Sonoma. I had another excellent meal of oysters, the black cod and a couple of glasses of local wine at the El Dorado Kitchen.

After dinner I walked around the town square, even if it was only 8:30 neraly all businesses, including many of the restaurants were closed, and returned to the Best Western where I had a room for the night.

Today I'm riding back to the coast and following Highway 1 to San Fransisco.

Redwood National Park and Highway 1

The view of the coast looking North as one emerges from the northermost twisty forest bit of Highway 1.


Big bear and cub carved from redwood at Trees of Mystery tourist attraction. Relatives, Phil?



Cathedral Trees at Trees of Mystery. There's an actual small alter at which many weddings are held every year.

Self-picture of moi, and a big tree.

Greeters at Trees of Mystery. You'll recognize Paul Bunyan and his pet bull Babe.

Left the Hampton at around 10:00 after a stroll on the shore behind the hotel and the complimentary hot breakfast. The weather was cool, around 16 degrees. I soon entered Redwood National Park. The trees are giants!!

I stopped at the tourist attraction, The Trees of Mystery which is on Highway 101 just north of Klamath. The walk through the woods with particularly interesting growths named is about 1 kilometre long and very interesting.

Highway 101 is very odd. There are sections of divided four-lane superhighway which are immediately followed by narrow, windy, barely 24 foot-wide two-lane rough asphalt roads bordered on each side by huge trees, where the posted speed limit for some of the curves is 15 to 20 mph. Fortunately these slower sections are well announced so there's no screeching of tires or tire marks on the pavement.

I stopped for lunch in a café in the City of Eureka where a guy on a horn and another on an electronic keyboard played some nice jazz pieces as I ate my seafood salad.

I then rode down 101 to Leggett where I veered left onto Highway 1. Now that's a TWISTY road!!! There's no such thing as a straight bit; sharp rights and lefts and hairpins in both directions (well not at the same time, but in quick succession). There was very little traffic on this 44 mile piece of road that first is deep in the forest and then hugs the coast. I must say that one sees a lot of the road but little of the vistas because of the continously undulating serpentine nature of the road.

I arrived at Fort Bragg and was able to easily find a room for the night at the Beachcomber Motel which is right on the beach just north of town. Since this is a Bell cellphone signal-free zone I called Jane using my notebook and Skype. The quality was very good and the cost is cheap; an excellent back-up system as most motels have wifi for free.

I've programmed a route for today which will take me inland to Napa and Sonoma. I'll raise a glass to all of you.

The Oregon Coast to California

One of thousands of vistas.


Though you probably can't make them out very well there are dozens of sea lions on the rocks in this grotto at Sea Lion Caves.


Top of the lighthouse at Cape Meares.

"Octopus Tree", a 250-300 year old Sitka Spruce. at the Cape Meares Lighthouse and Wildlife Refuge.

Another beautiful view that this photo can only hint at. The white band you see is cloud cover hanging above the ocean and completely below yhe level of the road at this point. So one rides above, through, and below the clouds at different times. On a motorcycle this is magical.

I've spent the last two days driving down the Oregon coast along Highway 101, and it's been a spectacular ride. The weather has been perfect, from high fog-covered mid-to-high teens along the coast. to sunny highs of as much as 30 degrees when the road curves inland. In the areas where there is fog it never reaches down to road level; which means it's like you're driving in a cool tunnel. The vistas out along the cragged rocky shoreline with beaches below in many, many places are amazing. If one was to stop at all of the viewpoints one would never reach destination.

Friday's little detour off Highway 101 to the Cape Meares Scenic Viewpoint and Lighthouse was well worth it. I was told by one of the guides at the site that when the lighthouse was commissioned in 1889 it was the 8th in the US. It has been lovingly restored as is being cared for by a group of local "Friends of".

I checked into the Crown Pacific Inn and had a wonderful dinner at the Tidal Raves Seafood Grill accross the street.

Yesterday I got an earlyish start at 8:00 and continued down the Oregon Pacific Coast. After a strong coffee and a croissant at a packed roastery in Newport, my next stop was at a tourist attraction called Sea Lion Caves. Apparently this site is the only place, on mainland USA where sea lions congregate; and there were hundreds on a few ledges, and more interestingly in a grotto 300 feet below road level that visitors access in an elevator which has been installed in a shaft on the cliff. The sight and the sound of these large creatures on rock outcrops jutting from the water in this enclosed space is quite dramatic. Those who run this business have, to my mind, done a very good job at maintaining the balance between protecting the environment and providing access to the public; a good example of sustainable development. Judging by the number of people there and the size of the parking lots at the site this attraction is very popular. I would certainly recommend, especially for children.

While my original tentative destination for the day had been Brookings Oregon, I decided to continue on and cross into California and stop for the night somewhere close to the state line. Last night I had a lovely steak and crab dinner at Beachcomber, a popular establishment right on the coast in Crescent City. As I read Game Change on my Sony Reader and enjoyed the good food and wine I thought of how blessed I was to be able to undertake this voyage, and to have friends and family who love me back home who were interetsed by what I was doing and wished me well. I thought how nice it would be to do this trip again with Jane, possibly in a car. I thought of a cousin of mine whom I have learned from my older brother has just been diagnosed with terminal lung cancer who would never have a chance to do what i was doing. All this makes one very thankful.

This morning as the smell of waffles cooking downstairs wafts up to my room at the Crescent City Hampton Inn and Suites I wonder what I will discover today.